What to wear in winter gear

Davey Hughes, of Swazi, demonstrates the waterproof test designed for fabric samples. Here he tests a section including a jacket seam, and cranks the machine above the test standard, to red-line the machine. The garment passed muster.

01-06-2010 | Tim McVeagh

Talk shopping for clothing to farmers and their eyes will soon glaze over. Yet, because being comfortable when working outside is so fundamental and winter clothing can easily cost you $1000, it's worth having more than a casual glance at what's on offer.

Like all farm gear, we expect a lot from winter clothing. We'd like it to keep us warm and dry while not restricting movement, be hard-wearing, comfortable, resistant to farm chemicals, and of course, inexpensive.

The clothing gurus talk base, mid and outer layers. Each has a function.

Base layers are those directly in contact with the skin, typically made from finer fibres and finer fabric structures. Ideally, these absorb some moisture but remain dry to touch.

Mid-layers are those which also provide insulation. They are typically made in a heavier and thicker fabric than the base layer.

Outer layers are those which provide protection from the elements, particularly from rain, snow and wind; as well as some degree of physical protection. They must be durable. Outer layer garments are commonly made in integrated multi-layered fabrics. A real challenge for outer layers is that they must prevent rain from seeping inside the garment, while still allowing excess water vapour generated by the wearer's body during work, to escape.

Collectively, the base, mid, and outer layers must still allow relatively uninhibited movement. Layering allows the wearer to remove or add layers as the day changes.

Base and mid-layer materials:

The things that define a fabric are the fibre used, and the type of structure. Base and mid-layer fabric structures vary and include single jersey, interlock, rib and fleece.

Merino wool may be New Zealand-sourced, or a blend of Australian and NZ wools. So the "feel-good" factor of fine wool against the skin may be more than just physical for NZ farmers. Earth Sea Sky is one company which has joined the Zque accreditation programme. The Zque brand name developed by the NZ Merino Company accredits Merino wool growers who meet quality, animal health and sustainability standards.

In terms of wool fibre, the lower the micron count, generally the softer and the more comfortable the garment is against the skin. Fabric weight, measured in grams a square metre (g/m², or sometimes referred to as gsm) for garments can vary. Base-layer materials are commonly 200g/m², and mid layers around 330g/m².

With all other factors the same (and this is not common), fabrics made from wool are generally warmer than those made from synthetic materials. Woollen garments absorb moisture but do not feel wet even when they hold moisture, and also continue to provide reasonable insulation even when damp or wet. These days, most wool knitwear is machine washable, as the fibre/fabric has been treated to make it shrink-resistant. However, they hold more moisture in the fabric for a longer time, so take longer to dry than some synthetic materials.

Merino-possum blends ("Merinomink, Eco-Possum, Possumdown, Eco fur or Possum Wool") are warmer than 100% wool. Blends can be from 15 to 40% possum fibre.

Polyprop (Polypropylene, polypro) a synthetic fibre, is usually the cheapest of the base and mid-layering materials. As with other fibres, it is produced in various fabric structures, typically interlock and rib, but other structures are also possible. Polypropylene garments retain odour more than garments made from either wool or cotton. It tends to pill (produce fluff) and become rather hard with repeated use and cleaning cycles. It is not readily flammable, but can melt causing injury.

Polyester is among the most widely used fibres, worldwide. Many microfleece and fleece garments are made of polyester. Polyester fleece is made from PET (polyethylene terephthalate). It absorbs little moisture (less than 1% of its weight) and does provide good insulation, particularly when dry.

Common fleece thicknesses are 100, 200 and 300 micro. The 100 micro is claimed to have similar insulation properties as "one jumper warmth".

The 200 micro is claimed to have similar insulation properties as two-jumper warmth and so on. The insulation properties clearly depend on the actual fabric thickness and permeability to air.

Polyester garments should not be exposed to excessive heat. Sparks from fires and machinery make holes in them easily.

There are many mixes of the synthetic fibres available, with different fabric structures, although most base and mid-layers are made from knits.

Base-layer garments:

Base-layer garments include singlets, tee shirts, shirts, underpants, shorts, and long-johns. Base-layer garments should be a snug fit.

Mid-layer garments include tee shirts, shirts, jackets, shorts, and trousers. For tops consider:

• Long back

• Pockets and their security

• Hand-warmer pockets because gloves can be a pain when working

• Elasticated hem or drawstring to reduce heat loss

• Garment weight.

For bottoms consider:

• Dry seat, so sitting on wet things doesn't mean a wet backside

• Pockets, and their security

• Zippered fly

• Elasticated cuffs to reduce heat loss

• Garment weight.

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