Careful research each step of the way

Henry Dyer with the Merino fibre, the vital ingredient for JaneHenry.

08-09-2010 | Not Specified

Flock numbers have been built up to 60, including some wethers that have been retained. The flock's colours range from light silvers through to rich chocolate browns.

Fibre is also being sourced from young moonlight-coloured Merino breeder Will Gibson. An enthusiast, his coloured Merinos enjoy great success, taking out awards at local and national A&P shows. JaneHenry has secured a contract with Gibson to supply wool to the fledgling fashion house.

Early in the product development phase, JaneHenry teamed up with AgResearch's Lincoln-based textile testing unit in a series of trials to identify the spinning methods best suited to retaining the fibre's natural qualities.

The study also included developing methods to adjust the characteristics of the spun fibre and perfecting the required twist levels. This gives the finished scarves and shawls their natural softness and feel, both of which are points of difference.

After being lightly scoured in small hand-selected, graded and micron-tested batches, the wool is given a soft blow.

South Canterbury Textiles produced the first commercial run of woven scarves but since its closure that phase of the process has moved to Auckland.

The knitted scarves and shawls are being made by Dunedin-based Otago Knitwear.

All the spinning is now contracted to Mike Barra and his Quality Yarns team in Milton.

While lamenting the shrinking NZ woollen manufacturing base, Henry is impressed with those still involved.

His role in JaneHenry stops at the farm gate: "What happens next is Jane's domain". He admits he was originally oblivious to much of what followed once his Merino wool left the shed, and says his involvement in the new venture has been hugely interesting. He has learned a lot about the technical aspects of wool scouring and yarn making.

As well, he has gained a greater appreciation of the intricacies and disciplines involved with aspects such as product design, marketing and distribution.

"We have been fortunate to be able to link up with the likes of Mike Barra at Milton and Stuart McKenzie at South Canterbury Textiles. Prepared to push the boundaries, these guys have a vast amount of knowledge and practical know-how and are as enthusiastic as we are about the new label."

Barra and McKenzie are members of a team of highly skilled people that also includes graphic designer Mike Coker from Quicorp, and photographer Sharon Blance. Together they are working with JaneHenry on product development and marketing.

To avoid the chance of cross-contamination, the Dyers' coloured flock is shorn in the original two-stand shearing shed still standing on the farm. The same shed was also used for a photo shoot before the fashion label's retail launch.

At the yearly shearing in October, each fleece is individually assessed for length and strength, natural colouring and its style and softness. Fleeces are then classed and bagged according to micron range and colour to await delivery to the scouring plant at Washdyke.

Previously the wool was scoured at AgResearch Lincoln but with the recent closure of this facility, an alternative had to be found.

Because the fibre is so fine it needs special treatment. It can be scoured only twice yearly when the new company can clean its facility of all stray white wool and slow the machines to cater for the ultrafine fibre.

Once scoured, the fibre is off to Quality Yarns for spinning, then to be knitted or woven.

It is expensive processing the Merino wool at all stages in NZ, although Jane and Henry feel certain there is a demand for locally made products.

This desire to support an industry which has been left with little infrastructure and a diminishing skill base has led to plenty of challenges for JaneHenry.

Its success will depend on the market appreciating the uniqueness and high quality of the products, and the main market may well prove to be offshore.

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