Teaching a dog to love the motorbike

Pat nervously demonstrates the dangerous leg trap on an uncovered tray of a quad bike.

01-10-2006 | Anna Holland

Mate is now essentially ready for work.

That is, if he has a good understanding of basic commands and he is at least eight months old – well grown, strong and healthy.

Be mindful if he is under a year old, that he still has growing and developing to do, and don’t be too physically demanding of him.

It is wise to coincide a young dog joining the team with a busy period ahead, though don’t make the mistake of taking a young dog docking – many a break has been the result of an overly-exuberant youngster.

There is nothing like lots of work to settle a young dog and make it think, but you want him to grow strong sound limbs that can withstand the hard slog in the years to come.

So ease back on the throttle, and let him ride on the bike if it is a big day.

Incidentally, if he hasn’t been taught to ride on the bike now is a good time; and because some of you tend to beat young dogs into submission to do so, I will explain my method which is really easy and far less harrowing for them.

My pups are taught to ‘get up here’ when very young, either when they get up into their motel, or follow me up some steps, or on to a low trailer, but sometimes I get 6-12-month-old dogs that know nothing.

Rather than hauling on the neck of a heavy dog as it avoids the back of the bike, I teach it “get up here”.

Start by attaching the lead and then hop up on to a low trailer. He will naturally follow and as he jumps up say “get up here” – “good boy”. Repeat several times. Then get down, stand by the trailer and tell him to “get up here”. Again, repeat several times.

Now find something a bit higher. There will be no need for you to climb up as he will understand the words – or should do if you have done it right.

After he has jumped happily up on various objects the bike will be an easy progression. Let him jump on and off a few times with moments to settle in between. Praise him. Your aim is to have him comfortably standing – totally relaxed.

Keeping the lead attached, climb on the bike and then hold him up by his collar - more than likely when you start the motor he will try to jump off. Sooth with words as you hold him steady.

After he has settled, and still holding him close to the collar, start moving. Most dogs will struggle but hold firm and reassure him.

Drive around a bit and as he relaxes give him more rope, about a foot – this is more for your comfort than his.

If he manages to jump off say ‘no’ in a cross tone, and get him back up. Repeat all. Do drive slowly and keep the terrain smooth until he has gained his balance and confidence. Praise him from time to time when he is doing well.

Once a dog is relaxed and not struggling as we chug along a flat paddock, I tie the lead - about a metre in length, to the bike so that if he does fall or jump he can’t joyfully run away. He soon learns to stay put - the jerk on the neck as he lands is not enjoyable.

But please – drive slowly, have the rope long enough that he’s not hanging in mid-air, notice when he’s off (it will happen) and don’t drag him around thinking “I’ll teach you to stay” – it’s cruel.

I don’t know why so many of you use brute force rather than kindness when your dogs are nervous. One would hope you don’t do it with your children; as I have said before, a dog is very much like a child and by teaching with kindness and consistency they will want to learn, plus, you will gain their respect and trust.

Incidentally, for all of you that put your dogs on to four-wheelers I hope you have a suitable covering for them to stand on as it is a lethal trap back there, snapping and dislocating legs that get hooked between the bars.

Personally I hate bikes for stock work – there is nothing better than a horse for mustering and moving stock; and nothing better for dogs, but sadly they are a thing of the past in many areas.

I heard someone recently say he used to tie young dogs to his horse. DON’T EVER DO THIS – it is a recipe for disaster no matter how quiet your horse is.

I can’t believe I’m advocating a bike, but they are great for tying a young dog to. I have a 1-1.5m lead permanently attached to mine for that very purpose.

It is great for teaching a youngster to stay sensibly beside the bike rather than being here there and everywhere. There is also a long, 6m cord hanging on the back, just in case I need it.

And I always carry a length of rope in my pocket. I’d far sooner clip a lead on a young dog and have control than have him bolt to join a team member.

If you have trained your pup well, as you are going from A to B he shouldn’t bolt after stock but the temptation is often too great when his kennel pal is mustering or working a mob.

Avoid bolting at all cost – it is a very hard habit to break.

A word of caution though - I had a friend here the other day who said he once put a dog’s foot in it’s collar to steady it – he did that alright. He could only watch in horror as some cows with calves at foot pulverized it into the ground.

It is a good idea to have previously worked another dog in the holding paddock as you have Mate on a lead so that he gets used to being at your side even when another dog is having fun not too far away.

Some of you have all your dogs haring about in an uncontrolled frenzy playing ‘follow the leader’ – it makes me shudder – but if that is your style, burn my articles and let them go for it.

For those of you wishing to gain a controlled team, all it takes is a bit of common sense.

In the ‘old days’ (that gives my age away) the paddocks were bigger, the dogs had a good trot beside the horse to get out the back and there seemed to be more consistent work for them; and more time for everyone to give a young dog a fair go.

Nowadays the bike is full throttle, the horn turns the stock and the dogs try in vain to catch up. I kid you not!

Slow down – position yourself – and if it is a nice easy run use Mate, and if it isn’t, use your older experienced dog.

Nothing destroys a young dog’s confidence more than being asked to do work beyond his capabilities and when it goes wrong being abused and beaten for something he tried hard to do but didn’t have a hope in hell of completing.

I’m not saying don’t expect him to extend himself, just don’t put him under too much pressure – both mental as well as physical.

And praise, praise, praise.

I don’t mean overdo it – but don’t forget to do it.

It will boost his confidence, calm him in a tricky situation, and give him strength when he is tired.

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