Pregnancy, birth and weaning pups

01-02-2007 | Anna Holland

Breeding a litter of pups is a totally different kettle of fish to an accidental mating. Not only does it sadden me but it also makes me very angry, all these unplanned, poorly bred pups being born.

I really think people don’t give much consideration to their team of dogs and that is half the reason there are unplanned pregnancies. Most of you should have only male dogs in your team. I know bitches are cleaner to have around but unless you are astute and responsible, don’t even consider it.

If you prefer bitches but work with other people, then I would recommend having them spayed – it is easier in the long run.

If you do have an accidental mating, phone your vet and discuss a termination. There are two types – one soon after the act, the other, later when a scan confirms pregnancy.

If your bitch mated with another breed of dog eg huntaway/heading I’d strongly advise termination. Occasionally a pup will be born that is useful but in most cases they are a waste of dog tucker.

On the other hand if she mated with a similar dog eg heading/heading, huntaway/huntaway and both dogs are capable workers you may wish to go through with the pregnancy, but do think twice about it as there is a lot of work and expense involved.

And if you do, I would suggest only allowing your bitch to keep a couple of pups – there are too many pups being born, reared and then destroyed because nothing is ever done to train them – better to dispose of them on day one.

The most humane way to do this is in the first couple of days. Take them well away from the bitch because, yes, she does realize what is happening and will get upset. Then put the pup on a firm piece of ground and with a spade or batten give a swift, hard blow to the head and then dispose of it somewhere where she won’t find it.

I’d like to say leave dog breeding to the dedicated and experienced, but too many pups are born to a bad start in life so I feel it is better to write this article and pass on some of my experience.

Firstly, only breed from your bitch if she is kind natured, hard working and honest, and consider carefully the dog you mate her to. He must also have the same attributes.

Don’t think you must mate her to a top trial dog in order to get good pups as often these dogs are successful because of the hands they are in.

You may know of someone with a very clever, natural dog.

Consider too the owner, how is he with a dog? Are his dogs beaten into submission or are they relaxed, easy to work dogs that are allowed to use their initiative.

Personally, I ask a lot of questions about the potential sire because I am looking for a dog that is easy to work, one that works the same whether he is out every day or he has had a month off, one that thinks for himself and doesn’t have to be told every move to make, and one that has the natural ability to anticipate stock.

The actual mating isn’t as easy as you may think. Not only do heat cycles vary from bitch to bitch, but so does the amount of time a bitch will stand for a dog. And just because she is standing, it doesn’t mean she will get pregnant.

I have one, Beatrice, that has long cycles and will stand for at least two weeks. This makes mating difficult as there are only a couple of days that a bitch will get pregnant.

In a perfect world you would allow the dogs to mate every other day for a week but if you are traveling to the dog you would be wise to have blood tests taken from your bitch and go when the time is right.

Don’t blame the bitch

You often hear ‘my bitch didn’t hold’ but it was more likely bad timing on the owner’s part.

Incidentally do take care because pups in a litter can be born to different sires – keep her safe before and after the event.

It is wise to give her light work in the early stages of pregnancy, this will keep her fit, but do keep it light and avoid cattle work as she may get kicked – why risk it?

Despite some of the rubbish you may read, she will need extra food throughout the pregnancy. Use your eyes and hands to gauge how much.

She needs to be neither too fat nor too thin. Her coat must be shiny and you should be able to just, repeat just, feel her hips. She needs more to eat if you can easily feel her ribs.

Gradually increase her food as the pregnancy progresses or her condition indicates. Ease back on the work as well. I stop working them about two weeks prior to whelping but they still get let out twice a day for a run.

I have never had any trouble with pregnancys and birth and I am sure that is due to diet, exercise and care of my bitches not only whilst pregnant but throughout their lives.

She will need to be wormed two weeks before whelping and be free of fleas as well. Discuss safe products with your vet.

On average a bitch will whelp 62-63 days after mating, although I had a bitch give birth to 10 healthy pups on day 57 once, so I like to have them settled in the whelping kennel well in advance.

This kennel is made of timber and measures 107 x 91 cms, large enough for big huntaway’s. I had it made with a removable safety frame so that the bitch wouldn’t accidentally lie on the pups, but found it to be more harm than good as with the first couple of litters born I lost a few pups.

It looked like they had been behind the bitch, between her and the wall, not been fed and become cold. Naturally I threw it away and I’ve never had trouble since.

Before I put the bitch in there I give the walls and floor a good wash with a bucket of hot water with about half a cup of Janola in it – this kills any germs. When it is thoroughly dry I put in some very clean pea straw. Not a lot, but enough that when she moves around over the next couple of days it squashes down around the edges and in the corners.

Too much loose straw could result in pups being covered and the bitch laying on them. I use straw rather than hay as I feel she is less likely to ingest it when she cleans the pups as it is coarser.

The kennel has a board in the doorway so that pups cannot accidentally fall out and a run attached so that she may go to the toilet whenever necessary.

I would never have a bitch tied up for fear of pups being injured in the chain. I have on occasion successfully whelped bitches in sheds. If you do this make sure it is safe and secure, warm and dry.

I like the whelping area to be close by and away from other dogs and I put her there well in advance so she is comfortable and relaxed with her new surroundings.

You will know the big event is within 24 hours when you hear lots of scratching in the kennel and she is restless. Keep an eye on her but do give her some privacy. And don’t let everyone in the family keep watch, just one person that she trusts.

My instincts would tell me if a bitch was in trouble and the need to phone a vet. If she was panting and straining and nothing had happened within an hour I’d be on the phone pronto.

Occasionally I have found a cold pup that has been neglected in all the excitement. I’ll give it a warm bath, gently dry it then roll it in my top and carry it, much like a kangaroo, for an hour or two before popping it back with its mother.

I’ll then put it on a nipple and watch for 5 – 10 minutes, ensuring it has had a good feed. Works a treat and saved several pups that would have died.

Make sure the bitch has fresh water and food available, although it is common for them not to eat for a day or two after whelping - any more consult your vet.

Give a variety of quality biscuits, meat and sausage, also a warm drink of milk daily to keep calcium levels up. Supplements can also be added to the diet. As the pups grow increase your bitch’s food. It is virtually impossible to overfeed her but very easy to underfeed. Watch and feel her condition and coat.

Don’t let all and sundry visit her and don’t let children handle the pups. Some bitches are happy to see visitors, some aren’t – don’t punish her if she is the latter, it is her litter after all and she is only being protective, as nature intended.

The pup’s eyes will open in approximately two weeks and I give them their first worming about then. I have found ‘Canex Puppy Suspension’ to be the best at this age. It is very easy to administer and palatable. Worm your bitch at the same time. Worm them again in two weeks.

From here I use worming tablets hidden in dog sausage or mince. They should be wormed at 2, 4, 8 and 12 weeks of age and then routinely every three months - I cannot stress strongly enough that it is vital to a pup’s health.

Do make sure your bitch is able to get away from the pups if she needs to, as they can be very demanding. After all, in the wild she would leave them in the nest and go off hunting or rest close by.

I have seen, sadly, bitches with nowhere to go and half a dozen hungry, hassling pups literally shredding her udder as they attempt to feed.

Start weaning early

I actually start the weaning process at three-and-a-half weeks and by six weeks the pups are fully weaned – the bitch is thrilled and the pups bloom.

I feed them twice a day when they are three-and-a-half weeks old, with the following food: one cup porridge made with two cups water, cook. Add one tablespoon fat (saved from roasts or bought animal dripping) Stir to melt. Add half cup cold water and quarter tin (175g) quality tinned puppy food and quarter of a cup milk powder – mix well. Add 200g crumbled dog sausage – mix well. Avoid chunky, coarse textured ones – some are finer ground, and remove any big gristly bits. Sometimes, depending on the sausage you may need to use a masher to mix it in. Add another cup of water – stir. You want to feed this to the pups warm, not hot or cold.

This is the basic recipe, and how much you need, will depend on the breed, number of pups and the amount of milk they are receiving from the bitch.

I put it in a shallow dish and introduce one pup at a time. Gently hold its head down over the food. If it doesn’t start licking you may need to put some in its mouth – to taste. Once it has the idea, introduce another pup.

I feed them on clean grass or concrete so that when they put their feet in it, which they always do at this age, the food isn’t fouled with dirt or straw. Feed them until they have all had enough. Cook more food if they are still hungry.

Allow the bitch to eat any leftovers as you want to feed them only fresh food. They will get covered in it – faces and legs, and she will lick them clean – thank goodness.

When they are four weeks old I will start leaving the bitch out for a few hours over the day but leave her with them at night. This gives her a reprieve as well as gently weaning the pups.

Feed them their food, until they are full, before putting her back in with them.

Naturally you are making a larger amount of food as they eat more. Also gradually increase the proportions of sausage so that it is getting meatier.

When they are five weeks old I stop leaving her with them and she will have a brief visit every other day so they can have a quick drink – this will also help her to dry off. Cut back her food as well.

By six weeks they should be weaned and she shouldn’t be producing much milk.

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After you have weaned them keep an eye on her udder – mind you, you should have throughout the period she has been in milk, in case any problems have occurred. Bitches can contract mastitis, so care is needed.

Once the pups are weaned I start introducing puppy biscuits into their diet. You can get these from stock firms. Always soak them in water first. I put a cupful in a bowl and only just cover them with hot water. After about 10 minutes they will have absorbed all the water and be softer. I add that to their porridge/meat brew.

Gradually increase the proportion of biscuits. Everything in their diet is gradually added because their stomachs are delicate and easily upset.

When I wean the pups I remove the milk powder from the mixture and give them a bowl of milk. I

feed the solids first, until they are full, then give them milk. They will drink some and then there are leftovers for later.

There is always fresh water available.

Either feed them three times a day or leave enough food for throughout the day. Any stale food left, give to another dog and feed them a fresh meal at night.

By the time they are eight weeks old they should be eating dog sausage, dog biscuits and meat.

Talk to your vet about vaccinating the pups. I always vaccinate a week before they are due to start going to their new homes.

It is important that the new owners feed the pups the same food that you have been feeding for the next couple of days as they settle into their new home – it makes the transition easier for them.

Sometimes with the new surroundings and different food they’re reluctant to eat, and you don’t want that.

I’m aware my pup feeding isn’t a scientifically balanced diet but I have always had beautiful, round, shiny, healthy pups that are full of the joys of life.

Author: Anna Holland can be contacted on 027 28 44 639.

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